The snow-white beaches and olive groves of the Cyclades are no strangers to mariners: The island chain -- 39 in total, stretching from Athens to Santorini -- has hosted seafarers for more than 9,000 years.

Sailing remains the best way to explore it, and April the best month: Brisk winds minimize sailing time between the islands, and you're almost guaranteed sunny days and temperatures in the 60s, without the cruise ships that disgorge passengers all summer long.

The dangerous meltemi, a fierce warm squall that rips through the Aegean year-round at precisely 4:00 pm, isn't as pronounced now as in summer. Among our favorite ports: Gavio on sleepy Andros, where you'll be greeted with a bottle of ouzo and a plate of omelets as you tie up. On Mykonos, the walled city of Hora is home to the salty Down Under Bar (30-2289-0-23542). Time your visit with Greek Orthodox Easter -- May 1 this year -- and watch the islands light up with fireworks and parades. A charter from Hellas Easyacht will get you to ports not serviced by ferries (crewed from $340 per day; bareboat from $140; http://www.easyacht.gr/).